On June 24 and 25, Chennai’s Semmozhi Poonga witnessed a unique observance of World Refugee Day. Prepared for visitors was a grand feast of 50-authentically made dishes from various countries. From Sri Lanka’s fish buns and pol sambol to spirulina juice, chapli kebab, dhul feda, and dhooi pila from countries like Myanmar, Afghanistan, and others, were served to guests at the food fest Oorum Unavum, organised by the Tamil Nadu state government in collaboration with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) and stakeholders like Advantage Foods.
All 50 dishes at the fest were prepared and served by refugees who are currently living in Tamil Nadu. The festival aimed to commemorate World Refugee Day under the theme of ‘Hope Away from Home’. It was intended to foster a deeper understanding of refugee experiences and emphasised the need for universal access to home and nourishment. MP Kanimozhi Karunanidhi inaugurated the food festival on Saturday, June 24, and also had lunch there.
SC Chandrahasan, the founder of Organization for Eelam Refugees and Rehabilitation (OfERR), a welfare organisation for Sri Lankan refugees, told TNM that one of the primary objectives of this festival was to platform the entrepreneurial skills of the refugees trained by them. “OfERR not only focuses on providing education for refugees, but also imparts practical life skills that will be beneficial if they choose to return to Sri Lanka,” he explained.
While the festival offered an exciting culinary experience, it also shed light on the grim existence that refugees are forced to eke out outside their homeland. Rathna Raja Singam, a staff member at OfERR, who arrived in Tamil Nadu 30 years ago, fleeing from war-torn Sri Lanka, has been fighting for his identity ever since. Describing the government restrictions he faces, Rathna said, “We are caught between two worlds. Even if a relative of mine passes away in Sri Lanka, I won't be able to attend their funeral, as it would result in the termination of my refugee status.”
Speaking to TNM, another refugee from Sri Lanka, Akhila said, “Beyond being a culinary exchange, the event provided a platform for sharing heartfelt stories and experiences.” She emphasised that while showcasing the flavours of various cuisines from neighbouring countries, the festival also drew attention to the too-often ignored existence of refugees in India. Akhila further added, “We began preparations for this festival months ago. We were first given training by OfERR and Advantage Foods. After the training, we started preparing masalas and the other required ingredients. We didn’t expect such a crowd. On Saturday, we almost ran out of food.”
Mohammed Junaid, a Myanmari refugee who arrived in India at the age of 10, currently works as a daily wage labourer in Kelamangalam in Krishnagiri district. Now 19 years old, Mohammed was the youngest cook at the festival. While sharing his experience, he said, “UNHCR officials approached me and asked if I would be willing to prepare some Myanmari dishes for the food festival. We faced challenges in finding all the required ingredients at the Burma Bazaar. So, there are obviously some compromises in taste. At the festival, I prepared channa and dhul feda. Both dishes were sought after by the visiting public. This brought me great joy, and I believe I have a promising future as a cook.”
Rathna also pointed out how the status of refugees is not one that brings happiness, adding that this was why, in his view, World Refugee Day should not be a time of celebration. Elaborating on the meaning behind the title of the food fest, he said that no individual should be labelled as a refugee, as ooru (homeland in this case) and unavu (food) should not be restricted or owned, but rather should be freely accessible to all beings, including humans.