As we zipped on the Bengaluru-Mysuru Expressway connecting Mysuru to the coffee highland of Coorg, an arch about 4 km before Kushalnagar town grabbed our attention. It ushered us to Bylakuppe, the largest Tibetan settlement in south India and second largest Tibetan settlement in the country. With stupas, fluttering prayer flags, five stunning monasteries, handicrafts, carpet factories, and an incense factory, Bylakuppe throbs with the sights and sounds of Tibet.
On the roads were Tibetan children cycling to schools and scores of monks in maroon and ochre robes. Tibetans zoomed past farmlands on their motorbikes and monks drove tractors as we entered Bylakuppe. The handicrafts and the momos with chilli paste were a real treat. We came across hundreds of clean shaven monks of different ages in their maroon garb walking the grounds or sitting in the small halls, praying loudly in their characteristic drone.
Novice Tibetan monks take a stroll in the monastery
As we proceeded, we saw the landscape dotted with several monasteries, the main ones being the Great Gompa of Sera Jey and Sera Mey. The Sera Jey Monastic University is located at Sera, in Lama Camp. It also has an enormous prayer hall. The other important monastery in the neighbouring settlement of Bylakuppe is Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, renowned as the seat of Panchen Lama. The Zangdok Palri Temple, with artistic turrets and a semi-circular arch at the top, is equally impressive.
Zangdok Palri Temple in Bylekuppe
Cruising past a sacred lake, we saw the Namdroling Monastery, widely known as the Golden Temple, glinting in the far distance. Every weekend, the place is choc-a-block with busloads of pilgrims, tourists, and holidaying families, and even celebrities, who flock to see the spectacular Golden Temple.
The Golden Temple heralded a welcome with its colourful flags fluttering in the breeze and gold leaf exteriors glinting brightly in the afternoon sunshine. As we entered the temple, we could sense the thick smell of incense pervading the halls. The place resounded with the sounds of gongs, synchronised chanting of hymns by monks, and the occasional deep, booming sound of the ceremonial Tibetan horn.
Intricate paintings adorn the walls of the temple
In the sprawling halls, we saw the 60 ft golden Buddha Shakyamuni (the founder of Buddhism) and the disciples, Guru Padmasambhava and Buddha Amitayus, which were 58 ft tall. We walked around gaping in admiration at the numerous bright paintings on the vast expanses of gold leaf gracing the space around the three statues. The area in front of the idols is decorated with lamps, festoons, and other items. These halls are well lit and bright in comparison to monasteries in other parts of the country. The colourful murals depicting the lives and times of Buddha and his followers are a huge draw.
Inside the statues are the scriptures, relics, clay stupas, and small statues symbolising the body, speech, and mind of the Buddha. Intricate paintings adorn the walls of the Golden Temple. Some of them depict the wrathful form of a male and female Buddha. One can’t miss the prayer halls lined with mats in maroon and ochre, silver urns carrying ghee for lighting the lamps, and the huge trumpets and drums used for ceremonial occasions. The place exuded an air of tranquillity as a senior monk went around chanting prayers and lighting the lamps — it’s as if you have been transported to a different world.
Clean shaven monks in their maroon garbs at their prayers
It was during the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1959 that the Dalai Lama, along with several Tibetans, sought refuge in India. The Tibetan settlement in Bylakuppe was formed as a result. Earlier, the 3000-acre area was an uncultivated patch of flatland, which accounts for the name byla koppa, meaning barren, open land. The Tibetans in Bylakuppe engage in agriculture and carpet manufacture.
If you enjoy a carnival-like charm, ensure to be here during the Tibetan New Year, when monks don lively masks and costumes for the Cham dance, swaying to music played on traditional instruments, and masked dancers twirl in colourful costumes to the sound of gongs.
Nearest railhead: Mysuru (92 kms)
Where to stay: Kushal Nagar (4km) and Madikeri (30 km) have several accommodation options.
What to buy: There are shops selling memorabilia from the monastery and produce from Coorg. You can pick up an assortment of Tibetan goods like thangkas, prayer wheels, incense, caps, carpets, handbags, handwoven sweaters, shawls, etc.
What to eat: La-phing (noodles made of soya bean) Pheu-cha (butter tea), Thukpa (a Tibetan noodle soup in different variations served with Tibetan bread).
All pics by Susheela Nair.
Susheela Nair is an independent food, travel and lifestyle writer and photographer contributing articles, content and images to several national publications, besides organising seminars and photo exhibitions. Her writings span a wide spectrum which also includes travel portals and guide books, brochures and coffee table books.
Editor's note: An earlier version of this article had used the words 'Chinese New Year' in place of 'Tibetan New Year'. The News Minute regrets the error.