Kozhikode’s iconic Paragon restaurant, famed for its piquant biriyanis and authentic Malabari cuisine, has been ranked 11th in a list of the 150 most legendary restaurants in the world. The list was published by Taste Atlas, an online travel guide for traditional food that has catalogued over 10,000 foods and drinks across the world. Figlmüller in Vienna, Austria, which the guide describes as having “earned its reputation by specialising in a single dish — the Schnitzel Wiener Art — for over a century”, tops the list. Katz's Delicatessen from New York City and Warung Mak Beng from Sanur in Indonesia appear in the second and third spots respectively.
In its website, Taste Atlas describes Paragon as “an emblem of the region's rich gastronomic history, celebrated for its mastery of traditional Malabar cuisine.” The restaurant's enduring charm lies in its inviting atmosphere, coupled with the meticulous preparation of dishes that celebrate local produce and traditional cooking methods, the guide says. It goes on to add that the dish that reigns supreme at the restaurant is the biryani, “a blend of rice, meat, and spices, steeped in age-old traditions and prepared with locally sourced ingredients.”
Coming in at the 12th position on the list is Tunday Kababi, another Indian restaurant from Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, acclaimed for its Mughlai cuisine. Taste Atlas describes Tunday Kababi as “a jewel in the crown of Lucknow's culinary scene”. Additionally, several other Indian restaurants have secured spots on the list, including Peter Cat from Kolkata, West Bengal (17th); Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba from Murthal, Haryana (23rd); Mavali Tiffin Rooms from Bengaluru, Karnataka (39th); Karim's in Delhi (87th); and Ram Ashraya in Mumbai, Maharashtra (112th).
Each of these restaurants offer “a unique gastronomic journey that is absolutely worth embarking upon at least once in your lifetime,” Taste Atlas says in its website. “These are not just places to grab a meal, but destinations in their own right, comparable to the world’s most famous museums, galleries and monuments. Each one has withstood the test of time, eschewing trendy gimmicks in favour of traditional, high-quality cuisine,” it says, adding that these establishments have remained relevant and highly regarded in an ever-changing culinary landscape.
Founded in 1939 as a bake-house by Vatsan, Paragon now has multiple branches and is currently run by his son Sumesh Govind. When approached by The Hindu for his thoughts on the restaurant's inclusion in the list, Sumesh expressed his surprise and humility, stating that he did not want to get carried away by the recognition, although he found it inspiring.
Sumesh had earlier spoken up for Muslim restaurant owners in Kozhikode last year during the ‘spit halal’ controversy that broke out across India. Hindutva right wing groups had begun a campaign against Muslim restaurant owners who served halal food by alleging that they “spit” on the food before preparing it. Sumesh, in an interview to The Quint said that at least food should be secular and he knew his fellow restaurant owners in Kozhikode, who were Muslims, served “good, clean and unadulterated food.” Paragon has always maintained secular values, he said.